The Great Stalactite at DoolinTHE MAGIC OF DOOLIN
Took flight from the city over last weekend to visit the little townland of Doolin on the west coast of Clare. Doolin has become a musical Mecca for lovers of traditional music from all over the world since two brothers Pakie and Miko Russell put it on the map back in the 1960’s. Playing flute and fiddle the Russells became the focal point for musical 'seisuins' in O’Connors pub in the heart of the village, and while the musical pioneers are deceased ,the tradition of impromptu gatherings continue as we discovered on our Sunday night excursion to the landmark hostelry.A fiddle,uilean pipes,concertina and melodeon spun tunes out into the packed pub ,alternating between dizzying jigs and reels and sean-nos laments stretching back to sorry tales of Ireland's greatest tragedy ,the potato famine of 1847. We were even treated to a song celebrating Doolin itself
“I never will forget the first time that we met
As we listened to the songs and the stories
There was magic in the air
In the Banner County Clare
Long ago when we first met in Doolin…”
Of course the real delights of that part of Clare are found outside in the glorious coastline with the mighty Atlantic pounding wave after crashing wave against the rocky shore. Walking out from Doolin Pier and looking across to the Aran islands there is a real sense of the terrifying majesty of the sea at its rawest and untamed. And again by the rocky shoreline at Fanore the spectacle of the ever-heaving sea fills one with awe and wonder. In the shadow of that ‘terrible beauty’ the human frame no matter how lofty or self-regarding is put into a context reminiscent of man himself in the light of Eternity. Perhaps this is the truest perspective against which we should “number our days” and live our lives , cognisant of the bigger picture. The coast road from Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughaun with its twin companions of the sea on one side and the Burrens limestone hills on the other, brings out the poet and philosopher in all but the stoutest of souls, I think!
Yet another delight of this brief trip was a visit to The Doolin Cave, boasting the longest stalactite in the northern hemisphere at 6.54m (20 feet). The Cave was discovered back in 1952 known as Pol-an Ionian but has only been commercially developed as a tourist attraction in the last couple of years. To facilitate access to the stalactite, low-level rock blasting and drilling had to be carried out with the risk that the vibrations and shock-waves could have dislodged the stalactite from the roof of the cave. Thankfully this did not occur ,and the feature is now on course to becoming a major attraction in the region.
Accompanied by our guide a group of seven entered the cave through a small gate and descended the 125 steps to a distance of about 80 feet, where we were provided with hard-hats for the rest of our subterranean trek. The interior is adequately lit by a main supply source which is just as well, as the guides torch seemed to be on its last legs and required several belts from him to resuscitate it back to life ! The passage which leads to the stalactite is narrow and quite low in places,even I managed to bang my hard-hat once or twice as we progressed onwards. We were guided to the viewing rail in pitch darkness and at the flick of a switch the splendid site of the stalactite came into view ,to the assembled oohs and ahhs of our group. The stalactite resembled a pale marble chandelier hanging from the cave roof, appearing rather eerily luminescent midst the surrounding darkness of its cavernous home. A thing of beauty indeed and an introduction to the mysterious world beneath our feet.
So ended our brief interlude on the west coast, endued afresh with the wonders of creation and the genius of the human spirit. By the way I can heartily recommend O’Connors farmhouse B and B for anyone wishing to spend a few days in Doolin, O’Connors for pub and grub and for a coffee in a pleasant musical ambiance the Magnetic Reel music café ,all situated within a 10 minute stretch of each other.
Of course the real delights of that part of Clare are found outside in the glorious coastline with the mighty Atlantic pounding wave after crashing wave against the rocky shore. Walking out from Doolin Pier and looking across to the Aran islands there is a real sense of the terrifying majesty of the sea at its rawest and untamed. And again by the rocky shoreline at Fanore the spectacle of the ever-heaving sea fills one with awe and wonder. In the shadow of that ‘terrible beauty’ the human frame no matter how lofty or self-regarding is put into a context reminiscent of man himself in the light of Eternity. Perhaps this is the truest perspective against which we should “number our days” and live our lives , cognisant of the bigger picture. The coast road from Lisdoonvarna to Ballyvaughaun with its twin companions of the sea on one side and the Burrens limestone hills on the other, brings out the poet and philosopher in all but the stoutest of souls, I think!
Yet another delight of this brief trip was a visit to The Doolin Cave, boasting the longest stalactite in the northern hemisphere at 6.54m (20 feet). The Cave was discovered back in 1952 known as Pol-an Ionian but has only been commercially developed as a tourist attraction in the last couple of years. To facilitate access to the stalactite, low-level rock blasting and drilling had to be carried out with the risk that the vibrations and shock-waves could have dislodged the stalactite from the roof of the cave. Thankfully this did not occur ,and the feature is now on course to becoming a major attraction in the region.
Accompanied by our guide a group of seven entered the cave through a small gate and descended the 125 steps to a distance of about 80 feet, where we were provided with hard-hats for the rest of our subterranean trek. The interior is adequately lit by a main supply source which is just as well, as the guides torch seemed to be on its last legs and required several belts from him to resuscitate it back to life ! The passage which leads to the stalactite is narrow and quite low in places,even I managed to bang my hard-hat once or twice as we progressed onwards. We were guided to the viewing rail in pitch darkness and at the flick of a switch the splendid site of the stalactite came into view ,to the assembled oohs and ahhs of our group. The stalactite resembled a pale marble chandelier hanging from the cave roof, appearing rather eerily luminescent midst the surrounding darkness of its cavernous home. A thing of beauty indeed and an introduction to the mysterious world beneath our feet.
So ended our brief interlude on the west coast, endued afresh with the wonders of creation and the genius of the human spirit. By the way I can heartily recommend O’Connors farmhouse B and B for anyone wishing to spend a few days in Doolin, O’Connors for pub and grub and for a coffee in a pleasant musical ambiance the Magnetic Reel music café ,all situated within a 10 minute stretch of each other.
Gerard O'Shea
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